First 10 Things to 3D Print on Your New Printer [Beginner Guide]

So you just unboxed a brand new 3D printer. You've got filament loaded, the bed's leveled (hopefully), and you're staring at that glowing screen thinking "what now?"

I've been there. Built my first printer from a kit years ago, and I've lost count of how many machines I've assembled or modified since then. The urge to print something cool right away is strong - but trust me, there's a smarter path forward.

This guide walks you through the first 10 things you should print, in order. We'll start with calibration (boring but critical), move through some useful prints, and end with something personal that reminds you why you bought this thing in the first place.

1. Calibration Cube (20mm XYZ Test)

Print Time: 30-45 minutes
Difficulty: Easy
Find it: Printables | Thingiverse

Yeah, it's just a cube. But this little 20mm x 20mm x 20mm block tells you more about your printer than any fancy model could.

Print it with default settings - 0.2mm layer height, 20% infill, 200°C nozzle temp for PLA. When it's done, grab some calipers (or a ruler if you're starting simple) and measure all three dimensions.

What to check:

• Are all sides exactly 20mm? If not, you might need to calibrate your steps/mm
• Are the corners sharp or rounded? Rounded = cooling issues or loose belts
• Is the top surface clean or blobby? Tells you about retraction and flow rate
• Any layer shifts? That's a belt tension or speed problem

Don't skip this one. I know it's tempting to print Baby Yoda right away but dimensional accuracy matters, even for decorative prints. A wobbly calibration cube means wobbly everything else.

2. Benchy (3DBenchy)

Print Time: 1-2 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Find it: Printables | Thingiverse

The little tugboat. Every 3D printer owner has printed at least one Benchy - it's the universal benchmark for a reason.

This model is deliberately designed to test multiple aspects of your printer in a single print: overhangs, bridges, fine details, curves, flat surfaces. It's like a full diagnostic wrapped in a cute boat shape.

What Benchy reveals:

• Bow overhang: Can your cooling fan handle 45° angles?
• Smokestack holes: Are small details coming out clean?
• Roof surface: Any pillowing or poor top layers?
• Hull curves: Layer adhesion and extrusion consistency
• Text on the stern: Can you read "3DBenchy"? Fine detail test

Print it with the same settings as your calibration cube. Compare your Benchy to photos online - the 3D printing community has documented every possible defect this thing can show.

And yeah, you'll probably print like five of these over the next month. We all do.

3. Temperature Tower

Print Time: 1-1.5 hours
Difficulty: Medium (requires gcode editing or slicer scripts)
Find it: Printables | Thingiverse

Every filament brand - heck, every spool - behaves a bit differently. That PLA might say "190-220°C" on the label but where in that range does it actually print best?

A temperature tower prints multiple segments at different temps. You'll see sections marked 200°C, 205°C, 210°C, etc. going up the tower.

Settings tip: Most temperature towers need you to add gcode commands to change temp at specific layer heights. Many slicers have built-in calibration tools now (Cura, PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer all do). If you're slicing manually, you'll insert M104 commands in the gcode.

What to look for:

• Stringing between sections: Too hot
• Poor layer adhesion or gaps: Too cold
• Clean bridging and overhangs: Just right

Once you find the sweet spot, note it down. I keep a little text file with temps for each filament type. Saves so much trial and error later.

4. Stringing Test

Print Time: 20-30 minutes
Difficulty: Medium
Find it: Printables (search "retraction test")

Stringing is that annoying cobweb-like filament that shows up between parts of your print. It happens when the nozzle oozes plastic while traveling through empty air.

A stringing test (usually two thin towers with space between them) shows you if your retraction settings need work.

Quick settings guide:

• Retraction distance: Start with 5mm for Bowden, 1mm for direct drive
• Retraction speed: 40-60mm/s
• Temperature: Use the temp you found with your tower

If you still get strings, increase retraction distance by 0.5mm and try again. If the strings are really bad, drop your nozzle temp by 5°C.

Some filaments (looking at you, PETG) just string more. That's life. But you should be able to get it minimal.

5. Cable Management Clips

Print Time: 10 minutes each
Difficulty: Easy
Find it: Printables | Thingiverse

Okay, calibration's done. Time for your first useful print.

Look around your desk. I guarantee there are cables everywhere - monitor cables, USB charging cords, headphone wires. Those little adhesive cable clips solve that problem and they print in like 10 minutes.

This is where 3D printing clicks for most people. You identify a small annoyance, find a solution online, and 15 minutes later you're sticking it to your desk. It's addictive.

Print a handful: You'll use more than you think. I printed six and used all of them within a day.

Bonus: They're small enough that failed prints don't waste much filament, so they're good practice for dialing in your first layer adhesion.

6. Phone Stand

Print Time: 1-2 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Find it: Printables | Thingiverse

Your first "real" print that isn't calibration and isn't just a clip.

Phone stands are perfect beginner projects: simple geometry, no complex overhangs (usually), and you'll actually use it. I still have the one I printed on my second day of owning a printer.

What to look for when browsing designs:

• Check the dimensions - will your phone fit?
• Consider cable routing - some have cutouts for charging cables
• Viewing angle - do you want vertical or angled?

Print settings: 20-30% infill is plenty. You can go lower if you want to save time but I wouldn't go below 15% - you want some structural strength.

This is also a good print to experiment with different colors if you have multiple spools. Make it your own.

7. Headphone Holder

Print Time: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Find it: Printables | Thingiverse

Another desk upgrade. If you have over-ear headphones, you know the struggle - they end up on the desk, on top of your monitor, or draped over the back of your chair.

A headphone holder mounts to your desk (or wall) and gives them a proper home. Clean desk, happy brain.

There are hundreds of designs out there: under-desk mounts, desk clamps, wall hooks, RGB-lit stands (because of course). Pick one that fits your setup.

Print tip: Use supports if the design needs them, but try to find one that's designed to print support-free. Removing supports isn't hard but it's an extra step you might not want to deal with yet.

I printed a simple under-desk hanger and it's been stuck there for three years. Still works perfectly.

8. Gridfinity Bins

Print Time: 1-4 hours per bin
Difficulty: Easy
Find it: Printables (search "gridfinity")

Okay, buckle up. Gridfinity is a modular organization system and it's basically crack for makers.

The concept: Everything fits into a grid of 42mm squares. Bins, tool holders, drawer organizers - all compatible, all stackable. Once you print your first few bins you'll start seeing Gridfinity solutions for everything.

Start simple: Print a basic 1x1 or 2x1 bin. Use it for screws, SD cards, or whatever small stuff is cluttering your desk. Then print more. And more. Before you know it your entire workspace is Gridfinity'd.

The beauty of this system is you can customize it. Need a holder for your calipers? Someone's designed it. Want a pen holder that fits the grid? It exists. You can even design your own pretty easily since the base dimensions are standardized.

Fair warning: You'll spend more time organizing things into Gridfinity bins than you save from being organized. But it's fun, so who cares.

9. Custom Nameplate

Print Time: 1-3 hours
Difficulty: Easy (if downloading) / Medium (if customizing)
Find it: Use Thingiverse Customizer or design in TinkerCAD

This is where it gets personal.

Print something with your name. Your kid's name. Your dog's name. A sign for your desk that says "DO NOT DISTURB - PRINTING" (you'll need it).

If you don't want to design from scratch, search for "customizable nameplate" on Printables or Thingiverse. Many models have built-in customizers where you just type your text and download the STL.

Or learn the basics of TinkerCAD (free browser-based 3D design tool). You can create a simple nameplate in literally 5 minutes. Drag a box, drag some text, merge them, export. Done.

Why this matters: This is the first print that's yours. Not a test, not a benchmark, not something everyone else has printed. It's unique to you. That's the whole point of having a 3D printer.

I printed a nameplate for my workbench that says "VIKING WORKSHOP" in runic-style letters. Took me an hour to design and it's one of my favorite prints.

10. Something from Printables or Thingiverse

Print Time: ???
Difficulty: Your call
Find it: Printables.com | Thingiverse.com

Now you've got the basics down. Time to explore.

Go browse. Search for things related to your hobbies - board game organizers, camera mounts, guitar picks, miniatures for D&D, planters, desk toys, whatever you're into.

The 3D printing community is massive and incredibly generous. People design and share stuff for free every single day. You'll find solutions to problems you didn't even know you had.

My advice: Sort by "most popular" or "most downloaded" when you're starting out. Those models have been printed thousands of times, which means they're proven to work. You'll see common issues mentioned in the comments (like "add supports here" or "scale to 110% for a better fit").

Don't be afraid to fail. Some prints won't work out - wrong settings, design issues, bed adhesion failures. That's part of learning. Every failed print teaches you something.

And if you really get stuck, the 3D printing community on Reddit (/r/3Dprinting, /r/FixMyPrint) is stupidly helpful. Post a photo of your issue and someone will tell you exactly what's wrong.

FAQ: Common Beginner Questions

What filament should I use for my first prints?

PLA. Hands down. It's the easiest to print - doesn't need a heated bed (though it helps), doesn't warp, doesn't smell bad, and it's cheap. PETG and ABS come later once you've got the basics down. Start with PLA and get comfortable.

My prints aren't sticking to the bed. What do I do?

First, make sure your bed is level. Like, really level - this is the #1 cause of adhesion problems. Second, clean your bed with isopropyl alcohol. Oils from your fingers mess with adhesion. Third, try a glue stick or painter's tape if you're still struggling. And check your first layer height - it should be slightly squished into the bed.

How do I know if my printer is calibrated correctly?

That's what prints #1-4 on this list are for. If your calibration cube measures exactly 20mm on all sides, your Benchy looks clean, and you found a good temperature with the tower, you're calibrated. Will you need to tweak things later? Probably. But you're good enough to start printing useful stuff.

Do I need to buy a lot of different filament colors?

Nah. Start with one or two colors you like. You can always buy more later, and filament lasts a long time if you store it properly (in a sealed bag or dry box). I'd rather have one good quality spool than five cheap ones. Quality makes a bigger difference than color when you're learning.

How long will it take before I can print complex things?

You can print "complex looking" things right away - that's the beauty of 3D printing. The printer does the hard work. What takes time is understanding when prints fail and how to fix them. After a couple weeks of regular printing, you'll have seen most common issues. After a month or two, you'll be troubleshooting in your sleep. Just keep printing.

What's Next?

You've printed calibration tests, useful organizers, and something personal. Your printer is dialed in and you're getting comfortable with the process.

From here, it's about exploring what you want to make. Maybe that's functional parts for projects. Maybe it's miniatures and art. Maybe it's prototyping your own designs. That's up to you.

The first 10 prints are just the foundation. The real fun is what you build on top of it.

Now go print something.

- Thomas / MakerViking